Bikepacking Journey Along the Iron Curtain Trail
The Iron Curtain, a physical and ideological barrier that once divided Europe, is a scar on the continent’s history. For decades, it stood as a stark symbol of the Cold War, separating families, communities, and nations. Today, its remnants offer a unique opportunity for exploration and reflection.
A Ghost of a Border (Day 0)
Following the path of this once-impenetrable border, the Iron Curtain Trail invites cyclists to journey through time and space. Our adventure began with four riders, a collective desire for exploration, and a fleet of gravel bikes equipped with Posedla custom 3D-printed saddles and Acepac bikepacking gear. For three days, we would trace the ghostly outline of the Iron Curtain, pedaling through the Czech Republic and Austria, bashing the borders and uncovering stories of division and resilience.
As we set off, we knew we were embarking on more than just a bike ride. We were about to explore a landscape shaped by history, a place where the signs of a divided era still linger.
Into the Green Heart (Day 1)
Our journey began in the historic town of Gmünd, Austria, a place where the echoes of past centuries mingled with the promise of adventure. The initial kilometers were a blur of excitement and anticipation as we pedaled deeper into the Naturpark Blockheide-Eibenstein. The forest canopy formed a verdant tunnel, filtering sunlight into dappled patterns on the forest floor.
The trail was a mix of smooth asphalt and gravel, testing our bikepacking setups and our endurance. We navigated a labyrinth of paths, each twist and turn revealing new vistas. The Iron Curtain once ran through these woods, an invisible line dividing landscapes and lives. Today, it was a mere whisper in the rustling leaves.
Litschau Castle emerged from the eponymous historical town like a fairytale mirage. Its imposing silhouette stood in stark contrast to the surrounding greenery. As we explored the steep hill leading up to the castle, we couldn't help but imagine the lives that had unfolded in the surroundings, both before and after the Curtain fell.
The day wore on, and with it, our sense of wonder grew. We stopped for a much-needed coffee and lunch in Slavonice, a charming town with a rich history on the Czech side of the border. The afternoon brought us to Drosensdorf, our destination for the night. After a day of exploration, there was nothing more refreshing than a dip in the biotope, surrounded by nature's tranquility. The day concluded with a leisurely swim in the town's pool, a perfect end to a demanding but exhilarating first day.
A Vineyards Odyssey (Day 2)
Day two dawned with the promise of new landscapes and experiences. We left Drosensdorf behind and headed towards Retz, our destination for the day. The terrain was going to shift dramatically, as the dense forests of the previous day were slowly supposed to give way to rolling vineyards.
Our route took us through the picturesque Podýjí National Park, a haven of biodiversity and stunning scenery. We meandered along winding roads, passing through some charming villages with deep forests stretching as far as the eye could see. The Iron Curtain once ran through these woods, dividing landscapes and lives. Today, its legacy was evident only in the occasional remnants of border fortifications.
We stopped for a leisurely lunch in Hardegg, a historic town overlooking the Thaya (Dyje) River. After exploring the town and its castle perched on a hill, we continued our journey. Before reaching Retz, we made a detour to Znojmo, a beautiful city on the Czech side. Here, we enjoyed a refreshing coffee, pastries and took in the vibrant atmosphere.
The final stretch of the day brought us to Retz, a town steeped in winemaking tradition. We tackled a few steep climbs towards the windmill, rewarded by breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. Upon arrival in Retz, we treated ourselves to a stay at the luxurious Althof hotel. The evening was spent indulging in a delicious dinner and enjoying a refreshing swim in the rooftop pool.
We may not have been the most hardcore bikepackers, but we knew how to appreciate the finer things in life, like a comfortable bed and a glass of good wine.
The Final Push (Day 3)
Day three marked the end of our journey, but we were far from ready to bid farewell to the Iron Curtain Trail. We set off from Retz, eager to savor the final moments of our adventure. The vineyards continued to dominate the landscape, their rolling hills creating a picturesque backdrop for our ride.
We passed through charming village of Pulkautal and biked up its 1.6km-long Hadres Cellar Lane lined with traditional houses and wine cellars.
Halfway through the day, we made a stop at the town of Laa an der Thaya. As we entered the town, the sky suddenly darkened, and a downpour caught us off guard. We quickly sought shelter under a bridge, waiting for the rain to subside. Fortunately, the storm didn't last long, and we were soon back on our bikes.
Finding a lunch spot that would accommodate our bikes proved to be a bit of a challenge. After a brief search, we stumbled upon a local restaurant where we could enjoy our meal without worrying about our bikes. To celebrate our final day on the trail, we indulged in our last Viennese schnitzel of the trip, the best comfort food to cap off our adventure.
Before reaching Břeclav, we rode through the stunning Lednice-Valtice UNESCO landscape. A steep climb to Reistna Colonade brought back memories of the Road Classics Pálava race that took place in the region earlier this year. Another 20 km and our journey came to an end at the train station in Břeclav, where we bid farewell to each other and boarded our respective trains home.
As we looked back on our adventure, we couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences we had shared and the memories we had made. The Iron Curtain Trail had offered us a glimpse into the past and a chance to explore a region steeped in history.
Detailed itinerary
Day 0:
🚂 Arrival from Prague to České Velenice
🗺️ Short bike ride to the hotel and dinner (10 km)
🏨 Hotel Sole-Felsen-Bad
🍽️ Dinner at Stadtwirtshaus Hopferl
Day 1:
🍳 Breakfast at the hotel
🗺️ Route from Gmũnd to Drosensdorf (114 km — 1,110 m elevation gain)
📍km 0: Historical town of Gmũnd
📍km 5: Naturpark Blockheide-Eibenstein
📍km 37: Litschau Castle
☕️ km 72: Coffee at Atomika Slavonice
🍽️ km 72: Lunch at Besídka Slavonice
📍km 112: Historical town of Drosensdorf
🏨 km 114: Hotel Gasthof zur Hammerschmiede
🍽️ Dinner at Gasthof Failler "The Golden Lamb"
Day 2:
🍳 Breakfast at the hotel
🗺️ Route from Drosensdorf to Retz (92 km — 1,220 m elevation gain)
📍km 22: Langau Water Reservoir
🥐 km 38: Pastries at Anton Sackl bakery in Hardegg
📍km 38: Hardegg Castle & Old Border-Crossing Bridge
☕️ km 68: Coffee at Půlnapůl Znojmo
📍km 90: Windmill above Retz
🏨km 92: Hotel Althof Retz, Landgut & Spa
🍽️ Dinner at Althof Retz, Landgut & Spa
🧖 Wellness
Day 3:
🍳 Breakfast at the hotel
🗺️ Route from Retz to Břeclav (112 km — 520 m elevation gain)
📍km 22: Hadres Cellar Lane
📍km 51: Laa Castle
🍽️ km 53: lunch at Gasthaus Reiff
📍km 68: Wildendürnbach Cellar Lane
☕️ km 111: departure coffee at Dobrota
🚂 Departure back to Prague
We would like to extend a special thank you to the tourism board of Lower Austria for their support in making this trip happen.